Real Japanese Fare, Down to the Salt, at Iseya Robatayaki

A dish served at Japanese restaurant Iseya Robatayaki in South Jakarta. (Photo courtesy of Iseya Robatayaki)

While Japanese restaurants have long been a common sight in Jakarta, the majority of them have adopted a fusion style to please the Indonesian palate, even going as far as offering Padang-style sushi and other similarly adventurous creations.

Iseya Robatayaki, on the other hand, does the exact opposite.

The restaurant, located on the ground floor of Sampoerna Strategic Square on Jalan Sudirman, revels in the art of presenting authentic Japanese dishes. To do so, the owners go to great lengths. All the ingredients — vegetables, meat and seafood — are flown in directly from different parts of Japan. The Kobe beef, for example, is acquired from a small farm in Kobe; only the finest quality meat is chosen to be used in chef Hiroaki Asano’s dishes.

Even the simplest seasonings have made their way to Indonesia from Japan, down to the salt in the salt shakers.

The owners have taken this concept of introducing a true taste and feel of Japan seriously, as it is not only the food that deserves attention but also the decor of the restaurant.

With three private and one semi-private dining room, stunning nine-meter-high windows and original teak floors, Iseya radiates an exclusive touch. A grand aquarium at the entrance, an eye-catching kimono and smaller decoration pieces like kokeshi dolls and fans throughout the whole space underline the authenticity of the restaurant.

Due to its limited space, it is recommended to make reservations first.

Each room features a grill table where Chef Asano, originally from Tokyo, can demonstrate his cooking skills. Robatayaki , a Japanese method of grilling meat over hot charcoal from which the restaurant takes its name, may look simple, but according to Asano, it can take “years of practice before one can master the cooking.”

The restaurant’s interior. (Photo courtesy of Iseya Robatayaki)

Jessica Kawengian, one of the owners of the restaurant, says her partner who has spent a great deal of time in Japan, created the menu with Chef Asano.

“He travels to Japan for business very often, so he truly understands the local cuisine, and how to present it in an authentic way,” she says.

Iseya’s menu features a wide range of classic Japanese dishes, from sushi to rockfish; but according to Jessica, most people come here for the meat.

Iseya recently introduced a new lunch set menu to attract a bigger crowd during the day. Its strategic location is certainly a draw for the office workers from the building and its immediate neighbors.

There are four different lunch sets to choose from: the Salmon Cancan Yaki, the Kaisen Don & Udon, the Tsukune Steak, and the Beef Steak. Ranging in price from Rp 150,000 to Rp 230,000 ($13.20 to $20.20) — the latter is obviously for the steak set — the sets consist of an appetizer, salad, miso soup, the main dish served with rice, and a dessert.

The quality of a restaurant can often be gauged by sampling its most basic dish; in this case, it’s the miso soup, a staple of Japanese cuisine. When the soup is too watery and lacks aroma, it becomes clear that a restaurant doesn’t understand the first thing about Japanese food.

But at Iseya, the miso soup tastes exactly like how it should; it is savory and rich, and makes for the perfect starter for the whole set. The soup is followed by a refreshing salad — of course, served with real Japanese dressing — and while waiting for the main course, diners can snack on edamame beans — unripe soybeans in the pod, usually boiled and seasoned only with natural sea salt.

While Kaisen Don (sashimi bowl) and Udon (thick wheat flour noodles), as well as the salmon can be described as Japanese comfort foods, the Tsukune steak as a main dish seems a rather unlikely yet highly recommendable choice. The Tsukune steak — made of chicken — is soft and bathed in a sweet soy sauce, which is also used for another popular Japanese dish, yakitori. Served on a bed of onions and vegetables on the side, this dish impresses through its simplicity and the richness of its flavor.

Being renowned for its beef dishes, it is no surprise that Iseya’s lunch set featuring the beef steak as a main course is mouth-watering as well, and the most popular among diners — the tender and juicy beef lives up to its reputation of having top-notch quality.

To round off the meal, a small portion of creme brulee is served. Although not your typical Japanese dessert, this French delicacy is prepared perfectly: Under the layer of hard caramel awaits the contrasting creamy vanilla custard base.

Although the lunch set consists of several courses, it is not overwhelming in terms of portions. On the contrary, one feels immensely satisfied after scraping out the last bits of creme brulee from the ramekin.

Depending on the availability of the ingredients, the menu at Iseya often changes — and this restaurant is definitely worth several visits in a row, if only to see what other magical creations Chef Asano has come up with after a few weeks’ time.

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