Classical Italian with an Asia twist at Balboni (JG Photo/Tunggul Wirajuda)
Italian food is an increasingly common site on Jakarta’s culinary landscape, in part because its offerings range from the exotic to the traditional.
For the people behind the food, dishes like spaghetti and pizza are prominent menu items because they are easy to make and use fresh and readily available ingredients.
But many restaurants have failed to capitalize on the opportunity for creativity and experimentation that these basic recipes provide.
Recognizing this gap in the market, new Jakarta restaurant Balboni has set out to make Italian food that is in-tune with its roots but offers a distinct Asian flair.
“Balboni serves contemporary Italian food with a South Asian, particularly Sri Lankan, twist. This touch is what makes us different,” said Asanga Amaratunga of Balboni’s marketing division.
“There are many Italian restaurants in Jakarta, but none of them have this characteristic.
“Our food is familiar enough for most Indonesian diners, as they know Italian cuisine well, while South Asian cuisine has much in common with Indonesian food.
“Our food is 80 percent Italian and 20 percent South Asian. Even though we might make recipes like fettuccine with Sri Lankan curry or our deviled or spicy chicken, beef and pork, they are still predominantly pasta, regardless of the obviously South Asian influences.”
Amaratunga said he was confident that the new restaurant would pleasantly surprise visitors.
On a recent visit, the surprises began once the specialty drinks were served, which included a lemon tequila beer. The lemon brought out the full taste of the beer, much like it does for Corona and other beers, but also complemented the tequila’s smooth yet strong flavor.
“The drink was concocted by British mixologist Daniel Alexander,” Amaratunga said. “The beer, and all our other recipes, is also a reflection of Balboni owner Lal de Silva’s eclectic philosophy of food, which he acquired following his travels around the world.”
As for the appetizers, the bresaola beef with focaccia bread croutons and extra virgin olive oil are possibly the best example of de Silva’s ideas coming to fruition.
The dish, created by executive chef Ivan Lochef, is drizzled in balsamic dressing and perfectly complements the thin bresaola beef slices. The fusion really shines in this dish, with a marked yet subtle hint of curry, spices and nuts. The rucola leaves give the appetizer a more full-bodied taste that satisfyingly finish the dish.
For mains the Thai-inspired tagliatelle nero di seppia e gamberi, is a tribute to seafood, rather than just the section-filler on the menu.
The deep sea flavor of black squid ink pasta combined with the nutty taste and texture of pad thai noodles, olive oil, peppers and other flavorings, bringing a semblance of balance to the dish. With such an eclectic mishmash of cuisines this dish could easily be disastrous, but somehow the ingredients coexist elegantly and harmoniously.
Chef Lochef’s durian panna cotta with orange and cinnamon confit completely redefined the dessert. Infusing the panna cotta with its flavor, the durian meets its match with the coffee at the bottom third of the bowl, while the orange and cinnamon confit adds to its texture.
Balboni’s eclecticism is not just limited to the food; the interior design of the restaurant is also a study in contrasts. Exhibiting an industrial warehouse look with crates of olive oil and other foods, the restaurant’s wooden tables and chairs create a laid-back ambience. The courtyard is also ideal for alfresco dining, as it is quiet, and by Jakarta standards reasonably secluded.
But Amaratunga pointed out that the layout is as much about form as it is about function.
“Aside from serving food, we also sell our own homemade pasta, so the customer can literally take something back that will last longer,” he said.
“Most of all, our wares, food, the industrial scale and ambience of its layout is all part of our plan to make Balboni a distinct brand.”
Amaratunga hopes that Balboni will expand to Bali and other parts of Indonesia, such as Bandung in West Java and Malang in East Java.
Balboni certainly caters for lovers of Italian food but breaks the traditional mold with a distinctive South Asian twist, making it a must-try for food enthusiasts in Jakarta.
Balboni
Kota Kasablanka Mall, Tower AJalan Casablanca Raya Kav. 88South JakartaTel. 021 2956 8712balboniresto.com
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