Jerome Mamet is in Jakarta for three days presenting his menu at Lyon restaurant. (Photo courtesy of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel)
For Michelin-starred chef Jerome Mamet, it is not about accolades or recognition but about good, fresh food. Locally sourced, always seasonal and very French.
He brings that philosophy to Jakarta, where he’s spending three days overseeing the kitchens at Lyon in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Central Jakarta, at the invitation of executive chef Thierry Le Queau.
“In France we learn about food from a young age,” he said. “Children are taught about cheese, about produce, they learn the origins of the food they eat. It’s part of life. Part of the culture,” he said. “Cooking is an art and I look at my art the way a painter looks at a painting, each dish is a chef’s unique signature.”
Mamet, who is a chef at O Flaveurs in Chateau de Chilly de Douvaine — in the Rhone-Alps region of France — was heavily influenced by fellow Michelin-starred chef Alain Passard. The latter, who is known for growing his own garden and planning menus based on the produce found in it, introduced Mamet to the idea of allowing nature to dictate his daily plan of action. Keen on utilizing the fresh, organic produce of the region, Mamet has developed close relationships with his suppliers.
“I sit down and have coffee with them, talk about their produce. I look at how they grow their food,” he explained.
France’s nouvelle cuisine has gained popularity in recent years and many chefs in the country have steered away from the heavy sauce-based food toward lighter fare. In keeping with the emphasis on freshness, Mamet notes that his daily meetings with local producers and suppliers often include a fishing trip with his local fishmonger.
“He insists that I accompany him on his fishing trips,” he said, quickly adding that it isn’t one of his strong points.
In return for the support he receives from community farmers and local suppliers Mamet’s menus reflect the diversity of produce found in the region.
“I see the whole process as an exchange. It’s about supporting the local community. I use the best ingredients that I can find in my area and I highlight them in my food,” he said.
It is, perhaps, that attention to detail and his emphasis on producing the best food out of simple ingredients that won him the Michelin star in 2008. The awards are given based on anonymous inspections by reviewers and requirements have never been revealed.
“When I got the call saying I had received the star I thought it was a joke,” Mamet said. “Receiving the star is nice, of course, and it can be used to market oneself but I am defined by more than just that,” he said. “French food does not have to be complicated.”
Guests at his restaurant located on a terrace of the chateau, 15 kilometers from Geneva, are served dishes from a menu that is refreshed often. Meat from livestock that roam local pastures is delicately prepared and served with herbs grown in gardens not far from the restaurant. Cheese from the Rhone region reigns supreme while the drinks list is studded with gems.
At Lyon, Mamet’s menu features French favorites such as foie gras and Reblochon cheese illuminated with local ingredients like Javanese raspberries and hot peppers incorporated into the main course and dessert. Although Mamet’s focus has always been regional French cuisine, he hopes to gain inspiration from his travels in Asia.
“I have tried some of the food in Jakarta and I love it,” Mamet said of his first visit to the country. “I like a lot of Asian cuisine although I have not cooked any Asian food.” He said he was inspired by some of the local ingredients and hopes to replicate the taste back home. Perhaps diners at his restaurant could expect to find eastern influences in resolutely Gallic fare.
“Maybe Indonesian chefs who visit this restaurant might be influenced by my own cooking. I hope my cooking speaks to everyone here, too,” he added.
Lyon has invited Michelin-starred chefs to present their dishes since 2010. Chefs typically visit three times a year and present their signature dishes from various regions in France. Mamet will oversee the menu at the restaurant until Saturday, including specials at lunch and dinner. A cooking demonstration is also offered.
For more information: mandarinoriental.com/jakarta
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