An Old Favorite in Jakarta Loses Its Rock ‘n’ Roll Soul

The Hard Rock Cafe Jakarta has become a more sophisticated eatery. (Photo courtesy of Hard Rock Cafe Jakarta)

Two decades ago, the Hard Rock Cafe Jakarta — back then, still located at Sarinah on Jalan M.H. Thamrin — was one of the hottest places in town to enjoy high-quality live music, a few drinks, a decent burger and the largest accumulation of waiters and bartenders sporting tattoos and piercings, who would often jump on the tables and chairs to dance and entertain their guests.

Then came the move to the eX Plaza, just down the street. Although the cafe only moved to the other side of the road, it felt like it was worlds apart. Instead of its rustic, homey feel, the Hard Rock Cafe suddenly tried to be more chic and elegant, and being located in a mall also inevitably meant a different kind of clientele: families with kids and shoppers who were just passing by.

The once popular hangout spot for the rock ‘n’ roll and grunge-loving kids in the city had become more of a sophisticated eatery; yet the spirit of the Hard Rock Cafe was kept alive by its inexhaustible staff, who kept on singing, dancing and pouring those drinks.

The Hard Rock Cafe has since moved yet again, this time to the Pacific Place mall in South Jakarta.

Celebrating its grand opening on Thursday night with a performance by Indonesian singer Afgan Syahreza and Florida-based band Boyce Avenue, as well as a guitar-smashing ceremony, it became clear that the old Hard Rock Cafe Jakarta, which was so popular in the 1990s, has changed almost beyond recognition.

Sure, the rock and roll memorabilia on the walls, a trademark of all the restaurants belonging to the chain that was first established in 1971, are still there, as are the tasty — albeit overpriced — burgers, ribs, nachos and fajitas, and the rock shop that sells the famous Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts and pins. The lovely outdoor seating area is a novelty and the best addition to the new venue.

But it is not so much the menu, or the layout and design that has changed (although one might wonder why thought-provoking quotes by Bob Dylan and The Beatles prominently placed on the wall have to sit next to Kid Rock’s statement “I play rock ‘n’ roll, that’s what I do”); it is the overall atmosphere that is different.

This might perhaps have to do with the new location in the midst of office buildings that may get the Hard Rock Cafe a good crowd for lunch and after-work dinner and drinks, but certainly won’t revive its former reputation as a hot spot for the weekend crowd that used to stay until closing time of 3 a.m.

Pacific Place itself is a high-end, luxury mall that somehow doesn’t seem to match the Hard Rock Cafe’s tagline “Love all, serve all” (appending “but only if you bring enough cash” could set things straight), nor the rebellious spirit one typically attributes to bands or musicians under the rock and alternative genres.

And speaking of music, the place simply doesn’t live up to its name anymore: the play list these days includes much top 40 music, as well as some jazz numbers, reggae and pop. But as William Shakespeare already knew, what’s in a name, right?

Depending on personal taste, these changes don’t necessarily have to be for the worse, and some might even take a liking to the new look. Besides, a restaurant and cafe that never evolves doesn’t stand a chance to survive for a long time in the highly competitive F&B industry.

But those who expect that special familiar and somewhat nostalgic feel won’t find it anymore at Pacific Place. It seems that it has been left behind at the old venues, and the Hard Rock Cafe has turned into a place where people go to eat a hearty dinner rather than party like it’s 1995.

At the old cafe, people once elbowed their way to the bathroom. It’s safe to say this won’t happen anytime soon.

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