Finding a cocktail list in Jakarta on which a Negroni doesn’t feature is difficult. In many ways it serves as a a clear signpost to a knowing cocktail classicist behind the bar. (Photo courtesy of Loewy’s)
There is something about a drink with a good back story. Call it romanticism — or just another transparent attempt at adding to the art of drinking. But a bartender that can wax eloquent about his work will always add to the high that the drink itself naturally provides.
The story of the French-75 cocktail is a good one. In 1915, a bartender named Harry McElhone made a move considered blasphemous by the patriotic protectors of Champagne; he added gin to the King of Wines. It was a drink that packs enough of a punch to prompt finding its namesake in the 75-millimeter M1897; a wily piece of field artillery that featured prominently in World War I.
Move to Florence, Italy, circa 1919, where a count made a similar calculated move that has since been applauded by bartenders and barflies alike. Bored with the Italian-born aperitif, the Americano — a refreshing concoction of Campari, Martini Rosso and soda — the Count asked his bartender to omit the soda and replace it with gin. A bold move, to say the least. Impressed as he was with the result, a bolder move still was ensuring that his genius did not go unrecognized, thereby naming the new mix after himself. His name was Conte Camillo Negroni.
It is a drink that has not lost any merit in the past century. But it does seem to be enjoying a moment right now. The ruby-red concoction is guaranteed to cause a ripple effect in public watering holes; when one is ordered, 20 more from eyeing patrons will follow. It is the bitter-sweet blend of Campari, gin and sweet vermouth that is capable not only of whetting the appetite, but of cleansing the palate and aiding digestion.
Finding a cocktail list in Jakarta on which it doesn’t feature is difficult. In many ways, it serves as a clear signpost to a knowing cocktail classicist behind the bar. One that can make a good Negroni will no doubt be well-versed in the language of martini or have the sleight of hand required of an Old Fashioned. And as with many classics, the recipe is simple; equal measures of the three ingredients built in a low ball and served over ice with an orange twist.
Perhaps it is the naturally painless formula that inspires bartenders to want to deviate from the classic. Or perhaps it is the richness of flavors already inherent in the drink that excites the imagination. As a variation, some will toy with fresh rosemary which, if done well, can complement the herbaceous notes in certain gins. Others have played up the citrus character, swapping out the Campari for the orange brightness of Aperol and the rich bitterness of Punt e Mes.
I had not been in Jakarta long before a search for a decent Negroni ensued. At first, I was having a hard time. It may very well have been my particular inclination for bitterness, but it seemed as if a sweet palate was being catered to from all directions; if there wasn’t an addition of sugar syrup, there was an excess of vermouth that gave the drink a medicinal character.
But when I perched at the bar at Loewy’s in Mega Kuningan, South Jakarta, I knew I had stumbled across another fan of the count. My order was greeted with an appreciative nod from the bartender, Rhomy Imran; “Good choice,” he told me.
His suggested a variation involving Ungava as a base. I was skeptical at first about the Canadian-born spirit, insultingly bright yellow in color. But I was pleasantly surprised. The Nordic botanicals and interesting citrus notes make for a decent dry-style gin. When expertly built over a chiseled block of ice with a grapefruit twist replacing the traditional orange, the resultant cocktail was lighter than expected but with a good tart bite.
Two sips in, the drink envy became too much for Rhomy and he poured one for himself. Over the bar we clinked our glasses — to the Count, to his daring and to the subsequent creation that has provided many a well-deserved kick.
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